La Piazza Blog & Stories
Discover the Pristine Beauty of Sardinia
Discover the Pristine Beauty of Sardinia
œThis is not a tour just about food, beautiful sceneries, culture…
this tour is above all about people. Authentic people
I had the pleasure to guide and help developed a bicycle tour of Sardinia alongside Chef Jody Adams of Rialto Restaurant in Cambridge, MA.
It was clear that Jody already had a lot of knowledge about Italy, so we didn’t want to œcompete with eachother, instead we put our heads together and created an itinerary that had equal parts cycling and food. The next question was where could we run this itinerary? We both knew Sardinia has the power to hypnotize, to deeply seduce its visitors thanks to its distinct and still authentic culture and pristine landscape, so the answer was simple: a food-inspired cycling tour in Sardinia. As the tour began to take shape the NY Times added a little pressure by running and article about it before it even ran!
This journey was the inspiration of our new Savor Sardinia bike tour for 2015, so we wanted to share some of the highlights experiences.
Day 1 “ Glorious sunset on west coast
On our way down to the coast we stopped at Mr. Emidio’s vineyard, an inspiring 80 yrs old man who’spassion for his vineyard and wine are just as strong as the day he started. After the visit and tasting of Malvasia wine we got back on our bikes.
Imagine gently climbing through vineyards overlooking the sea, with a stunning sunset that gives its orange light to all the landscape. It was a perfect moment. I suggested that guest’s take their time, and enjoy that beauty in silence.
Back at our hotel, Villa Asfodeli, we had an aperitivo in the pool (yes, œin the pool, not œby the pool), enjoying every last sip while the sun began to set.
Day 2 “ Rural Sardinia, at its best
œToday we’ll cruise along a peaceful countryside, don’t loose your patience in the Sardinian traffic jam.
After a few hours on our bike we, as predicted, encountered the Sardinian traffic jam: a flock of sheep. Beinga shepherd is a strong part of Sardinian culture: it’s not just a job, it’s a way of living. That evening we met the stubborn (in a good way) and meticulous Salvatore, a local shepherd, that demonstrated how pecorino cheese and ricotta are made, while he recounted the story about his life in this remote part of Sardinia.
During our ride we stopped in Flussio to learn about the local Asfodel plant that, with lots of manual work, can be weaved into elegant baskets. Close by in Padria where we had lunch there was a surprise waiting for us: a church from the Byzantine Empire rich with many layers of history and a stunning glass floor.
Day 3 “ A dive into patches of blue
We headed south with a gentle climb to Cuglieri with its majestic cathedral. From there it was a continuous, never ending downhill to the white sand moguls shaped by the crystal clear water of Santa Caterina. Naturally, we took a break from our bikes and dove right in!
After a great picnic featuring local and fresh ingredients, we got back on our bikes and road along the coast to the Sinis peninsula.
Our hotel was the Aquae Sinis an œAlbergo diffuso, which refers to reviving small historic villages. After a dip in the pool, we continued to Contini winery, which is the oldest winery in Sardinia, and dedicated to preserve ancient local grapes
Dinner was supposed to be a œrest from food, but the selection of 20 pizzas made us think otherwise.
Day 4 “ Ancestral Giants, ancestral music, ancestral friendship.
Sardinia history is still very mysterious, so our day started with a visit to the local museum that hosts 33 gigantic statues that were found in the area dating back to 900 BC, a recent discovery that is changing the history of the Mediterranean.
Our bikes took us to the slopes of Montiferru where we stopped in Seneghe to enjoy a picnic prepared by our friend Antonio Maria and his wife Rossana. Food was fresh and local, but the true spirit came from being surrounded by friends!
Back at our hotel we had a cooking class by the one and only Jody! She was just incredible, transforming an entire group (guides included) of cycling tourists into a perfectly organized and efficient kitchen staff. It was lots of fun, the food was extraordinary, and a big THANK YOU to Jody for this experience! But that’s not all… in the midst of all this organized chaos 4 elegantly-dressed men entered and began singing œa tenore, an ancestral way of singing that dates back to Nuragic Sardinia, more than 3000 years ago.
Day 5 “ A food temple
Our first stop was in Villaurbana where we met about 2/3 of myfamily, drank some beers with locals (it’s 5 o’clock somewhere), and refused about ten invitations to visit their homes œjust come with your friends, it’s just for a coffee!. Villaurbana is our gate to Marmilla, an area of serene beauty with gently rolling hills covered with grain. Our final destination was Siddi, where we have the chance to meet Chef Roberto Petza at Ristorante S’Apposentu.
Aside from being a Michelin star awarded restaurant, it’s an œAccademia del Gusto, where young chefs come to learn how to cook. S’Apposentu promotes the use of local ingredients, reinterpreting old recipes and ignoring food trends. Here food tastes like food, and our lunch was a great experience. Roberto showed us the kitchen and his his vegetable garden where he gets many of his ingredients.
Today we finally saw the most famous Nuraghe, a prehistoric castle. After 3500 years its majesty is still impressive – how did ancient civilizations build these gigantic structures?
Day 6 “ Never ending beauty
Me: œOk friends, we start with a flat ride with a bit of countryside and coastal cycling
Guests: œThen?
Me: œThen we pedal along the most beautiful/stunning/impressive/enchanting coastal road of your life!
Guests: œOk, how many hills?
Me: Let’s just say it takes your breath away, but not because of the views” 😉
So we pedaled…the first climb to Teulada wasn’t difficult, just long. We stopped and had local fresh pasta with clams, zucchini and bottarga (super tasty dried gray mullet row) in preparation for the most spectacular part of the day.
I won’t lie, the ride was difficult, but when guests say that it really was the best ride of their life you feel satisfied. Imagine a 25 km coastal road that goes up and down showing you long sandy beaches, small secret coves, Spanish towers, lighthouses, granite cliffs… nearly without traffic, a dream for a cyclist.
On our second week we decided to end the ride in Tuarredda, a marvelous white sandy beach withturquoise transparent water. We organized a beach party, with Ichnusa beer, sodas, something to eat (just in case) and music. A blast.
Then what?
I had the honor and pleasure to have everybody at dinner at my mamma’s home… with my two brothers Lorenzo and Tommaso with their partners, my friends Marcello and Gianmario with their families, we ended with a gathering of about thirty people, and this time we even managed to leave before 2 a.m.
Grazie mamma Liliana, we’ll be back! And I hope to see all of you next year on
this tour is above all about people. Authentic people
I had the pleasure to guide and help developed a bicycle tour of Sardinia alongside Chef Jody Adams of Rialto Restaurant in Cambridge, MA.
It was clear that Jody already had a lot of knowledge about Italy, so we didn’t want to œcompete with eachother, instead we put our heads together and created an itinerary that had equal parts cycling and food. The next question was where could we run this itinerary? We both knew Sardinia has the power to hypnotize, to deeply seduce its visitors thanks to its distinct and still authentic culture and pristine landscape, so the answer was simple: a food-inspired cycling tour in Sardinia. As the tour began to take shape the NY Times added a little pressure by running and article about it before it even ran!
This journey was the inspiration of our new Savor Sardinia bike tour for 2015, so we wanted to share some of the highlights experiences.
Day 1 “ Glorious sunset on west coast
On our way down to the coast we stopped at Mr. Emidio’s vineyard, an inspiring 80 yrs old man who’spassion for his vineyard and wine are just as strong as the day he started. After the visit and tasting of Malvasia wine we got back on our bikes.
Imagine gently climbing through vineyards overlooking the sea, with a stunning sunset that gives its orange light to all the landscape. It was a perfect moment. I suggested that guest’s take their time, and enjoy that beauty in silence.
Back at our hotel, Villa Asfodeli, we had an aperitivo in the pool (yes, œin the pool, not œby the pool), enjoying every last sip while the sun began to set.
Day 2 “ Rural Sardinia, at its best
œToday we’ll cruise along a peaceful countryside, don’t loose your patience in the Sardinian traffic jam.
After a few hours on our bike we, as predicted, encountered the Sardinian traffic jam: a flock of sheep. Beinga shepherd is a strong part of Sardinian culture: it’s not just a job, it’s a way of living. That evening we met the stubborn (in a good way) and meticulous Salvatore, a local shepherd, that demonstrated how pecorino cheese and ricotta are made, while he recounted the story about his life in this remote part of Sardinia.
During our ride we stopped in Flussio to learn about the local Asfodel plant that, with lots of manual work, can be weaved into elegant baskets. Close by in Padria where we had lunch there was a surprise waiting for us: a church from the Byzantine Empire rich with many layers of history and a stunning glass floor.
Day 3 “ A dive into patches of blue
We headed south with a gentle climb to Cuglieri with its majestic cathedral. From there it was a continuous, never ending downhill to the white sand moguls shaped by the crystal clear water of Santa Caterina. Naturally, we took a break from our bikes and dove right in!
After a great picnic featuring local and fresh ingredients, we got back on our bikes and road along the coast to the Sinis peninsula.
Our hotel was the Aquae Sinis an œAlbergo diffuso, which refers to reviving small historic villages. After a dip in the pool, we continued to Contini winery, which is the oldest winery in Sardinia, and dedicated to preserve ancient local grapes
Dinner was supposed to be a œrest from food, but the selection of 20 pizzas made us think otherwise.
Day 4 “ Ancestral Giants, ancestral music, ancestral friendship.
Sardinia history is still very mysterious, so our day started with a visit to the local museum that hosts 33 gigantic statues that were found in the area dating back to 900 BC, a recent discovery that is changing the history of the Mediterranean.
Our bikes took us to the slopes of Montiferru where we stopped in Seneghe to enjoy a picnic prepared by our friend Antonio Maria and his wife Rossana. Food was fresh and local, but the true spirit came from being surrounded by friends!
Back at our hotel we had a cooking class by the one and only Jody! She was just incredible, transforming an entire group (guides included) of cycling tourists into a perfectly organized and efficient kitchen staff. It was lots of fun, the food was extraordinary, and a big THANK YOU to Jody for this experience! But that’s not all… in the midst of all this organized chaos 4 elegantly-dressed men entered and began singing œa tenore, an ancestral way of singing that dates back to Nuragic Sardinia, more than 3000 years ago.
Day 5 “ A food temple
Our first stop was in Villaurbana where we met about 2/3 of myfamily, drank some beers with locals (it’s 5 o’clock somewhere), and refused about ten invitations to visit their homes œjust come with your friends, it’s just for a coffee!. Villaurbana is our gate to Marmilla, an area of serene beauty with gently rolling hills covered with grain. Our final destination was Siddi, where we have the chance to meet Chef Roberto Petza at Ristorante S’Apposentu.
Aside from being a Michelin star awarded restaurant, it’s an œAccademia del Gusto, where young chefs come to learn how to cook. S’Apposentu promotes the use of local ingredients, reinterpreting old recipes and ignoring food trends. Here food tastes like food, and our lunch was a great experience. Roberto showed us the kitchen and his his vegetable garden where he gets many of his ingredients.
Today we finally saw the most famous Nuraghe, a prehistoric castle. After 3500 years its majesty is still impressive – how did ancient civilizations build these gigantic structures?
Day 6 “ Never ending beauty
Me: œOk friends, we start with a flat ride with a bit of countryside and coastal cycling
Guests: œThen?
Me: œThen we pedal along the most beautiful/stunning/impressive/enchanting coastal road of your life!
Guests: œOk, how many hills?
Me: Let’s just say it takes your breath away, but not because of the views” 😉
So we pedaled…the first climb to Teulada wasn’t difficult, just long. We stopped and had local fresh pasta with clams, zucchini and bottarga (super tasty dried gray mullet row) in preparation for the most spectacular part of the day.
I won’t lie, the ride was difficult, but when guests say that it really was the best ride of their life you feel satisfied. Imagine a 25 km coastal road that goes up and down showing you long sandy beaches, small secret coves, Spanish towers, lighthouses, granite cliffs… nearly without traffic, a dream for a cyclist.
On our second week we decided to end the ride in Tuarredda, a marvelous white sandy beach withturquoise transparent water. We organized a beach party, with Ichnusa beer, sodas, something to eat (just in case) and music. A blast.
Then what?
I had the honor and pleasure to have everybody at dinner at my mamma’s home… with my two brothers Lorenzo and Tommaso with their partners, my friends Marcello and Gianmario with their families, we ended with a gathering of about thirty people, and this time we even managed to leave before 2 a.m.
Grazie mamma Liliana, we’ll be back! And I hope to see all of you next year on
