Epic Cycling Rides: Southern Italy with Dana Geraghty

Where would our guides take you, if they could take you anywhere in the world?

The Coronavirus pandemic has grounded our guides at home for almost a year. Yet their passion and desire to taste, travel, and teach is unstoppable. Our guides – with an average 15 years of off-the-map travel experience – have compiled a book entitled Pedaled Passion: Ciclismo Guides Favorite Rides where they share with you their favorite world destinations.

This blog series highlights excerpts from the text where you can read your favorite guide recount their favorite ride. So join us on this most memorable journey. And if you feel compelled, we ask that you donate to our fundraiser, to get us through the winter, so we can make our next ride with you our favorite.

Thank you for your support.

South Tyrrhenian Coast

Mileage: 73 km (45 mi) Elevation: 1538 m (5,045 ft)

It is quite a difficult task to share only one favourite bicycle ride. After so many years of cycling, there is so much to consider to make a ride your favourite; it’s beauty, panorama, the difficulty, the challenge, the weather, the people you’re riding with or not, having a good day or a bad day, etc… So then, the rides we will be presenting are a unification of many of these aspects.

One of the finest rides, is on a CC trip, the 9th day of BASI (advanced 73 km), or 5th day of Cilento (athletic beginner 45 km), departing from Palinuro and after a day of great riding arriving in Maratea. The ride is mostly coastal, along the “Tirreno” (Tyrrhenian) sea. The ride starts in the region of Campania and ends in Basilicata. For me, the ride has been very special, because it is so different from my past, Colorado and it’s mountains.

First we must consider the “preparations” for the ride, in other words our arrival to and then departure from Palinuro. The place does not have the greatest “old” town, only small clusters of ruins remain; but it’s crystal clear blue Mediterranean waters, beautiful and wild landscapes, and personable hospitality make it a great destination. Palinuro lies within the Cilento National Park, a UNESCO heritage site, and includes several spectacular grottoes, coves and beaches.

A City By Any Other Name

Some say the name Palinuro comes from a roman mythological character in Virgil’s book the “Aeneid”. It was said that Palinuro, the helmsman of Aeneas ship was tricked by the god “Sonno” (god of sleep; greek god equivalent “Hypnos”) and tossed overboard as a sacrifice for the safe passage of the Trojans to Italy. Palinuro actually survived his cast off into the sea. But when Palinuro washed ashore, locals did not expect him believing he had perished. They perceived him as a sea monster, all covered up in seaweed, and so killed him. A Sibyl had predicted locals would build a mound to him and that would be Cape Palinuro.

Our arrival brings us to a 1970’s styled hotel, the King’s Residence, which offers rooms with balconies and sea vistas. Also it reigns over the very special “Baia di Buondormire”, a special cove on the south side of the promontory. The hotel has a private access, 450+ steps, to the small beach.

Did Somebody Say “Cibo”?

So, one needs fuel for the ride and there is no better way than dining at Sergio’s, Taverna del Porto. Sergio’s family has a gastronomical history in the region. His father Carmelo and sister Adele continue running the families first restaurant, “da Carmelo” with exquisite dishes. In the 50’s they gained much notoriety for serving the, now almost extinct, Arragosta Meditteranea (Palinurus Elephus). Sergio’s also prepares exquisite, creative and traditional Cilento dishes, using all local products, fresh fish, right off the port of Palinuro.

One other stop is Pistacchio & Cioccolato, a gelateria across from the town’s modern church. Another Carmelo, makes incredible gelato, with some “signature” flavours like Parigino, Tartufon, Baba al Rhum, among many other favourites.

After we’re all fueled up, and after a good nights rest above the sea, we’ll start our ride. Palinuro is a hard place to leave, but the days ride through the “Terra del Mito” (land of myth) presents other discoveries. The area was home to important Greek, Lucanian and Roman settlements. Many myths from the Odyssey, the Aeneid are set in local “scenes” sites in the area.

After our first 15 km, we arrive in Marina di Camerotta – a bustling summer tourist destination. The name Marina di Camerotta is also said to have come from myths. It was here, Palinuro fell in love with a sea nymph Kamaraton. She refused Palinuro’s admiration, so he invoked the god “Sonno” who turned her into a rock, the one the town now stands on. The actual “borgo” of Camerotta, a medieval town, is high up on the hill, where the extra kilometer ride descends from.

The Switchbacks are the Star

From Marina di Camerotta, on the advanced tour, we climb up to Lentiscosa. It’s a long and windy climb with great views. A few hairpin curves up, we encounter the small chapel “Capella di Piedigrotta” with a small resemblance to a latin american style. It’s somewhat funny, with that on your mind, when you arrive in Lentiscosa, the local men sitting at the bar seem like characters from a great western movie scene. Their greetings, the church’s tiled dome and the sea below, bring us back to reality, into Italy. This part of the ride is along the west flanks of Monte Bulgheria (1244 m). And once we get over the top, and descend from S. Giovanni a Piro, we are quite impressed by the towering sheer rock face of the mountain, and the opening views to the gulf of Policastro. It’s a long, twisty descent, and the only road, to Scario, where extra loop, and main route riders meet for lunch at the port.

To back up little bit, the main difference between our advanced route on the BASI trip and athletic beginner route on the Cilento trip, is Cilento diverts from Marina di Camarotta and rejoins in Scario. It basically eliminates the climbing with a spectacular boat ride, visiting the famous “Porto degli Infreschi” known to be the jewel of the Cilento coast. No better place to take a dip in the clear crystal blue sea. All itineraries are incredible! You might just have to sign up for both trips to take it all in!

A Port History

The port of Scario is very quaint and well maintained port. A long time has passed since it’s original settlements by the Italic people c.1000 BC. Occupied by many others over the years, the residents were finally ousted in 1500’s by Barbarossa and Dragut (Ottomans). With support of the Conti Carafa of the neighboring town Policastro, the local fisherman’s love of and dedication to the area brought it to life again.

We have a wonderful, peaceful and delicious lunch, at one of the small fish restaurants, in Scario. Locating our final destination, down the coast, in the far, hazy distance we depart again. Not too fast, as we’ll have a chance to digest, while we ride on fairly flat terrain along the “Golfo di Policastro” to Sapri. The gulf stretches across three regions, Campania (Sapri), Basilicata (Maratea) and Calabria (Scalea). It’s name comes from the small town Policastro Bussento. We pass by many old villages and incredible beaches, arriving in Sapri for a gelato.

Each year in August, Sapri presents a re-enactment of a battle in 1857 led by the Italian “freedom fighter” Carlo Pisacane. He brought 300 men to defeat the Bourbons and failed. There is a bronze statue of the “Spigolatrice of Sapri” (named after a poem by Luigi Mercatini), celebrating the event, as it is lying on a rock at sea and waiting for the arrival of the three hundred doomed men.

…And More Gelato

A good gelato will help us with the upcoming climbs! Departing from Sapri we start the first of several climbs. Don’t worry, the breathtaking views will keep your mind off the hard work getting up! The awe keeps you going and wanting even more! We now have officially entered the region of Basilicata. Less populated than most regions in Italy, we enjoy the beautiful road with barely any traffic. It’s like we’re experiencing and participating in a secret! But the panorama, the cliffs, the blue waters below, scream out loud their breathtaking magnificence!

Getting closer to Maratea we pass the famous spot named “Apprezzam’ u ciucc’”, toady called “Aprezzami l’Asino”. The name makes reference to the times when one travelled with many donkeys. Not all donkeys could fit on the old narrow road, so a value was determined for each donkey, the least valuable was compensated for half it’s value to the owner and then the donkey was thrown off the cliff. Even though the road in parts is still very narrow, we are lucky our bicycles do not have to partake in a similar fate!

We are close to Maratea, nicknamed “Dea del Mare” (goddess of the sea). We can tell we are near, since we can see the “Cristo Redentore”, a tall statue of Jesus (21 m), situated like a pinnacle, hovering over the town, as a symbol of protection. The town is high above the sea, and at the base below the craggy mountain, where the protector stands. Like, many of the other areas in the south, the settlements of Maratea date back to prehistoric ages, enduring 1000+ years of conquerors, of the human and natural kind… Until recently, it had difficulty growing. Now, it has a quaint commercial centre, selling traditional local ceramics, textiles, leathers, and cookies!

Before stricter regulations were made about who could enter a commercial ”kitchen” we would have Fortuna, at the Pasticceria Panza, show us how the local cakes “boccanotti” and almond cookies were made. Don’t worry, we still stop by to greet Fortuna and her son Marco, and pick up some samples of the goodies, just without the demo! Also worthy of a visit is the Farmacia dei Sani (pharmacy of the healthy) offering all kinds of local treats.

Finally we arrive at our hotel, la Locanda delle Donne Monache, a converted convent from the 1700’s. The hotel also exhibits a modern art collection throughout it’s labyrinth architectural layout. Awaiting us are amazing sunsets over the sea, walks through the narrow alleys of the village, and of course, the local Lucanian cuisine. Aglianico wines, fusilli or lagane, local cheeses, fresh fish, etc.. fill our bellies… a celebration feast, for an incredible and unforgettable day of bike riding!

Practical Information:

START: Palinuro, in the province of Salerno.
END: Maratea, in the province of Basilicata.
DISTANCE: 73 km (45 mi)
ELEVATION GAIN: 1538 m (5045 ft)
TERRAIN: Mountainous with a couple flat
sections
DIFFICULTY: Athletic beginner (Cilento)
Intermediate/ advanced (BASI)
BEST TIME TO GO: May to mid June or
September to mid October
PLACES TO STAY: Hotel KingsReidence,
Palinuro. www.hotelkings.it.
Locanda delle Donne Monache, Maratea.
www.locandamonache.com
PLACES TO EAT: Taverna del Porto or Ristorante
da Carmelo, Palinuro.
La Taverna zu Cicco, Maratea (outdoor
seating only). or Taverna Romita, Maratea.
Gelateria Pistacchioo & Cioccolato, Palinuro
Pasticceria Panza, Maratea.
CICLISMO TOUR: Bike Across Southern Italy or
Cilento Coast.
HOW TO GET THERE: Fly to Rome or Naples.
Train to Pisciotta. Shuttle, Taxi or bike ride
to Palinuro.